{"id":2967,"date":"2019-01-19T22:06:55","date_gmt":"2019-01-19T21:06:55","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?p=2967"},"modified":"2021-01-10T00:42:02","modified_gmt":"2021-01-09T23:42:02","slug":"cochrane-et-les-debuts-sur-la-carretera-austral","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/index.php\/2019\/01\/19\/cochrane-et-les-debuts-sur-la-carretera-austral\/","title":{"rendered":"Cochrane et les d\u00e9buts sur la Carretera Austral"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p><em>Ambiance musicale&nbsp;: Mon Europ\u00e9enne &#8211; Saez<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>J\u2019avais devant moi deux jours avant de reprendre la route ou\nplut\u00f4t, le ferry. J\u2019en ai donc profit\u00e9 pour me reposer, particuli\u00e8rement les\npieds, plus soumis aux kilom\u00e8tres et \u00e0 la charge quotidiens, reprendre des\nforces et \u00e9crire un peu sur le blog. J\u2019avais assez vu la ville et d\u00e9j\u00e0 proc\u00e9d\u00e9\n\u00e0 mes r\u00e9servations&nbsp;: je suis donc rest\u00e9 \u00e0 profiter de la chaleur du po\u00eale.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>En parall\u00e8le, j\u2019ai rempli de nouveau mon sac avec des\naffaires propres et il a retrouv\u00e9 sa forme dodue. Chaque remplissage relevait\ndu T\u00e9tris et cette fois ne d\u00e9rogeait pas aux autres.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<!--more-->\n\n\n\n<p>A la fin de la\ndeuxi\u00e8me journ\u00e9e, Benoit est rentr\u00e9 \u00e0 son tour du circuit \u00ab&nbsp;<strong>O<\/strong>&nbsp;\u00bb dans le parc des <strong>Torres del Paine<\/strong>. Mais pour lui, le\nrepos allait devoir attendre. Nous devions en effet embarquer le soir m\u00eame pour\npasser une premi\u00e8re nuit en si\u00e8ge inclinable sur le Crux Australis et\nr\u00e9ellement partir le lendemain matin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Mon id\u00e9e \u00e9tait de\nremonter le Chili en partant de sa partie la plus m\u00e9ridionale, et sans\ns\u2019\u00e9chapper par des alternatives plus \u00ab&nbsp;faciles&nbsp;\u00bb, comme le passage\npar la route en Argentine. Cela impliquait de prendre un ferry, en l\u2019absence\nd\u2019option routi\u00e8re, pour traverser les archipels du <strong>Parc national Bernardo O\u2019Higgins<\/strong>, \u00e0 gauche du <strong>Champ de Glace Sud<\/strong>. Cet espace est la troisi\u00e8me calotte glaciaire\nau monde apr\u00e8s l\u2019Antarctique et le Groenland.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sur le papier, nous\npartions donc pour plus de quarante et une heures de navigation et le passage\nde la douzi\u00e8me \u00e0 la onzi\u00e8me r\u00e9gion, celle d&rsquo;<strong>Ays\u00e9n (del General Carlos Ib\u00e1\u00f1ez del Campo)<\/strong>. De nombreux fjords\nnous attendaient et potentiellement des baleines et des orques.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Malheureusement, nous\nn\u2019avons pas pu en observer mais les paysages \u00e9taient bien au rendez-vous, mis\nen valeur par quelques rares rayons de soleil. L\u2019air \u00e9tait vraiment froid sur\nle pont mais chacune des sorties se justifiait amplement. La petite escale \u00e0 <strong>Puerto Eden<\/strong> nous a permis de nous\nd\u00e9gourdir les jambes autour de ce village uniquement connect\u00e9 par bateau,\npendant que d\u2019autres jouaient au football pr\u00e8s du port, en attendant que les\nmarchandises soient d\u00e9barqu\u00e9es.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery aligncenter columns-1 wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9112-e1547912317951-768x1024.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9112-e1547912317951-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2968\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=2968\" class=\"wp-image-2968\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9112-e1547912317951-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9112-e1547912317951-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9112-e1547912317951-900x1200.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9112-e1547912317951-1280x1707.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140379-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140379-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2969\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/p1140379\/\" class=\"wp-image-2969\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140379-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140379-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140379-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140379-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140379-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140383-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140383-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2970\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/p1140383\/\" class=\"wp-image-2970\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140383-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140383-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140383-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140383-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140383-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140384-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140384-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2971\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/p1140384\/\" class=\"wp-image-2971\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140384-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140384-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140384-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140384-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140384-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140386-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140386-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2972\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/p1140386\/\" class=\"wp-image-2972\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140386-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140386-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140386-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140386-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140386-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140387-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140387-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2973\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/p1140387\/\" class=\"wp-image-2973\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140387-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140387-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140387-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140387-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140387-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140388-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140388-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2974\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/p1140388\/\" class=\"wp-image-2974\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140388-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140388-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140388-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140388-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140388-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140396-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140396-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2975\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/p1140396\/\" class=\"wp-image-2975\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140396-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140396-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140396-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140396-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140396-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140397-1024x826.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"826\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140397-1024x826.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2976\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/p1140397\/\" class=\"wp-image-2976\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140397-1024x826.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140397-300x242.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140397-768x620.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140397-900x726.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140397-1280x1033.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140398-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140398-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2977\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/p1140398\/\" class=\"wp-image-2977\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140398-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140398-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140398-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140398-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140398-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>La deuxi\u00e8me journ\u00e9e s\u2019est pass\u00e9e comme la premi\u00e8re, entre pauses repas, siestes et moments pour prendre l\u2019air, quand le temps le permettait.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-1 wp-block-gallery-2 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/i1.wp.com\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140403.jpg?fit=629%2C472\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"5184\" height=\"3888\" src=\"https:\/\/i1.wp.com\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140403.jpg?fit=629%2C472\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2985\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=2985\" class=\"wp-image-2985\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140403.jpg 5184w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140403-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140403-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140403-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140403-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140403-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 5184px) 100vw, 5184px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140405.jpg?fit=629%2C472\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"5184\" height=\"3888\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140405.jpg?fit=629%2C472\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2986\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=2986\" class=\"wp-image-2986\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140405.jpg 5184w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140405-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140405-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140405-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140405-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140405-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 5184px) 100vw, 5184px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140409.jpg?fit=629%2C472\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"5184\" height=\"3888\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140409.jpg?fit=629%2C472\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2987\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=2987\" class=\"wp-image-2987\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140409.jpg 5184w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140409-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140409-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140409-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140409-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140409-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 5184px) 100vw, 5184px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/i2.wp.com\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140415.jpg?fit=629%2C147\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"8176\" height=\"1920\" src=\"https:\/\/i2.wp.com\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140415.jpg?fit=629%2C147\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2988\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=2988\" class=\"wp-image-2988\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140415.jpg 8176w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140415-300x70.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140415-768x180.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140415-1024x240.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140415-900x211.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140415-1280x301.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 8176px) 100vw, 8176px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Arriv\u00e9s de nuit et\nsous la pluie \u00e0 <strong>Caleta Tortel<\/strong>, nous\navons r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 trouver refuge dans un camping recommand\u00e9 auparavant. Plusieurs\nhabitants mettaient \u00e0 disposition un espace sous toit et l\u2019acc\u00e8s \u00e0 un bout de\nleurs espaces priv\u00e9s, contre quelques pesos. On est tr\u00e8s loin de l\u2019id\u00e9e de\ncamping que nous pouvons avoir mais l\u2019accueil y \u00e9tait chaleureux et la tente \u00e9tait\ninstall\u00e9e \u00e0 m\u00eame les planches de la plateforme sur pilotis.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Au petit matin, nous\navons rapidement fait le tour de la petite bourgade, o\u00f9 la circulation se\nfaisait sur de charmantes passerelles en bois. Le temps n\u2019\u00e9tant pas au beau\nfixe, nous avons d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de prendre la route pour <strong>Cochrane<\/strong>, apr\u00e8s avoir pein\u00e9 \u00e0 comprendre quand partirait le\nprochain bus et d\u00e9laiss\u00e9 l\u2019option de l\u2019auto-stop.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery aligncenter columns-1 wp-block-gallery-3 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/i1.wp.com\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140416.jpg?fit=629%2C472\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"5184\" height=\"3888\" src=\"https:\/\/i1.wp.com\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140416.jpg?fit=629%2C472\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2992\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=2992\" class=\"wp-image-2992\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140416.jpg 5184w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140416-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140416-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140416-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140416-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140416-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 5184px) 100vw, 5184px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140417.jpg?fit=629%2C472\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"5184\" height=\"3888\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140417.jpg?fit=629%2C472\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2993\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=2993\" class=\"wp-image-2993\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140417.jpg 5184w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140417-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140417-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140417-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140417-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140417-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 5184px) 100vw, 5184px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140420.jpg?fit=629%2C472\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"5184\" height=\"3888\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140420.jpg?fit=629%2C472\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2994\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=2994\" class=\"wp-image-2994\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140420.jpg 5184w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140420-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140420-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140420-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140420-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140420-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 5184px) 100vw, 5184px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/i1.wp.com\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140427.jpg?fit=629%2C472\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"5184\" height=\"3888\" src=\"https:\/\/i1.wp.com\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140427.jpg?fit=629%2C472\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2995\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=2995\" class=\"wp-image-2995\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140427.jpg 5184w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140427-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140427-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140427-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140427-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140427-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 5184px) 100vw, 5184px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>La route que nous allions emprunter n\u2019\u00e9tait pas n\u2019importe laquelle&nbsp;: il s\u2019agissait de la <strong>Carretera Austral<\/strong>. Longue de mille deux cent quarante kilom\u00e8tres, elle relie <strong>Villa O\u2019Higgins<\/strong> (\u00e0 une centaine de kilom\u00e8tres de Caleta Tortel) \u00e0 <strong>Puerto Montt<\/strong>, dans la <strong>r\u00e9gion des Lacs<\/strong>. Construite sous le r\u00e9gime militaire d\u2019Augusto Pinochet, elle a permis de d\u00e9senclaver cette partie sud du pays, en permettant une liaison terrestre, et est utilis\u00e9e aussi bien pour le transport du bois qu\u2019\u00e0 titre touristique, particuli\u00e8rement par des motards tout-terrain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A l\u2019heure actuelle, cette route n\u2019est goudronn\u00e9e que sur la moiti\u00e9 de sa longueur et ce n\u2019est pas le cas de la partie basse. Nous avons donc rejoint Cochrane en naviguant entre les nids de poule. Apr\u00e8s la pluie en route, nous avons d\u00e9couvert un petit village assez sympathique de trois mille habitants, avec sa pancarte fa\u00e7on Hollywood et son soleil couchant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Notre auberge \u00e9tait une maison qui offrait des chambres aux voyageurs, avec une d\u00e9coration bien \u00e0 elle et une mamie qui tenait \u00ab&nbsp;l\u2019\u00e9tablissement&nbsp;\u00bb, avec qui on discutait pendant la pr\u00e9paration des repas, dans sa cuisine. Pour poursuivre les d\u00e9couvertes nocturnes, nous nous sommes rendus \u00e0 la <em>Fiesta de la Voz<\/em> organis\u00e9 ce m\u00eame soir et anim\u00e9 par des vedettes t\u00e9l\u00e9visuelles. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery aligncenter columns-1 wp-block-gallery-4 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9139-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9139-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2998\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=2998\" class=\"wp-image-2998\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9139-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9139-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9139-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9139-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9139-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140430-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140430-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"3000\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=3000\" class=\"wp-image-3000\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140430-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140430-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140430-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140430-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140430-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9143-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9143-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2999\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=2999\" class=\"wp-image-2999\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9143-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9143-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9143-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9143-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9143-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9118-1024x690.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"690\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9118-1024x690.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2997\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=2997\" class=\"wp-image-2997\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9118-1024x690.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9118-300x202.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9118-768x517.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9118-900x606.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/IMG_9118-1280x862.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Devant le joli soleil de la matin\u00e9e, contrastant avec le reste des pr\u00e9visions m\u00e9t\u00e9orologiques, un sursaut d\u2019enthousiasme m\u2019a emport\u00e9&nbsp;: la <strong>r\u00e9serve nationale Tamango<\/strong> n\u2019\u00e9tait qu\u2019\u00e0 quelques kilom\u00e8tres et abritait la plus grande population de <em>huemuls<\/em>, sorte de cerf end\u00e9mique plut\u00f4t rare. \u00c7a ferait une tr\u00e8s belle excursion, \u00e0 moins d\u2019y aller pour plus d\u2019un jour, comme le proposa Benoit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Les souvenirs mentaux\net physiques de Torres del Paine \u00e9taient encore bien pr\u00e9sents, je n\u2019avais pas\nune envie folle de d\u00e9baller de nouveau tout mon sac pour repartir en trek, mais\nl\u2019opportunit\u00e9 \u00e9tait trop belle&nbsp;! Nous nous sommes donc pr\u00e9par\u00e9s et mis en\nroute.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Les eaux de la rivi\u00e8re\nCochrane et du lac du m\u00eame nom \u00e9taient magnifiques, r\u00e9v\u00e9lant un peu de\nturquoise pr\u00e8s des berges, au gr\u00e9 des rayons de soleil. Nous n\u2019\u00e9tions pas\nencore mi-mars que les premi\u00e8res couleurs de l\u2019automne pointaient leur nez, \u00e0\nla diff\u00e9rence des <em>huemuls<\/em>, qui,\nmalgr\u00e9 notre discr\u00e9tion, sont rest\u00e9s invisibles, \u00e0 part sur les panneaux des\nsentiers. En revanche, ne pas croiser de pumas ne nous a pas d\u00e9rang\u00e9s outre\nmesure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery aligncenter columns-1 wp-block-gallery-5 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140433-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140433-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"3002\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=3002\" class=\"wp-image-3002\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140433-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140433-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140433-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140433-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140433-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140435-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140435-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"3003\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=3003\" class=\"wp-image-3003\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140435-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140435-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140435-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140435-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140435-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140436-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140436-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"3004\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=3004\" class=\"wp-image-3004\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140436-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140436-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140436-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140436-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140436-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140450-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140450-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"3006\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=3006\" class=\"wp-image-3006\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140450-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140450-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140450-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140450-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140450-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140454-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140454-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"3008\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=3008\" class=\"wp-image-3008\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140454-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140454-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140454-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140454-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140454-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140445-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140445-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"3005\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=3005\" class=\"wp-image-3005\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140445-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140445-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140445-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140445-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140445-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140453-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140453-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"3007\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=3007\" class=\"wp-image-3007\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140453-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140453-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140453-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140453-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140453-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>La nuit approchant,\nnous nous sommes install\u00e9s au bord de la <strong>Laguna\nElefantita<\/strong>, un peu \u00e0 l\u2019abri du vent. M\u00eame si nous n\u2019\u00e9tions plus en\nPatagonie, il \u00e9tait toujours assez pr\u00e9sent, et le temps changeait assez\nfr\u00e9quemment entre pluie dans la nuit, quelques flocons de neige au r\u00e9veil et\nciel mitig\u00e9 ensuite.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery aligncenter columns-1 wp-block-gallery-6 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140459-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140459-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"3009\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/p1140459\/\" class=\"wp-image-3009\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140459-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140459-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140459-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140459-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140459-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140462-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140462-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"3010\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/p1140462\/\" class=\"wp-image-3010\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140462-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140462-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140462-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140462-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140462-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140466-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140466-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"3011\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/p1140466\/\" class=\"wp-image-3011\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140466-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140466-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140466-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140466-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140466-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140473-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140473-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"3012\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/p1140473\/\" class=\"wp-image-3012\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140473-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140473-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140473-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140473-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140473-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Le lendemain, en prenant le chemin de la descente, nous sommes tomb\u00e9s sur des connaissances de Benoit, avec qui il avait d\u00e9j\u00e0 randonn\u00e9 du c\u00f4t\u00e9 argentin. Ceux-l\u00e0 allaient continuer leur route en autonomie pendant encore de nombreux jours alors que nous allions revenir \u00e0 notre point de d\u00e9part. Nous avons donc poursuivi ensemble, avec le passage d\u2019un condor au-dessus de nous\u2026 Le premier\u00a0! Son c\u00f4t\u00e9 furtif ne nous a pas permis de v\u00e9rifier cette hypoth\u00e8se.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Plus tard, et comme\nnous n\u2019avions pas \u00e9t\u00e9 chanceux avec les stars du parc, nous avons \u00e9t\u00e9\nr\u00e9compens\u00e9s par un beau groupe de guanacos (dont le lama descend), en train de\npaitre, avant de voir un petit renard trainer pr\u00e8s des installations de\ntourisme, \u00e0 la fin de la balade, nullement d\u00e9rang\u00e9 par notre passage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery aligncenter columns-1 wp-block-gallery-7 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140475-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140475-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"3013\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=3013\" class=\"wp-image-3013\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140475-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140475-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140475-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140475-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140475-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140480-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140480-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"3014\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=3014\" class=\"wp-image-3014\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140480-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140480-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140480-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140480-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140480-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140482-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140482-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"3015\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=3015\" class=\"wp-image-3015\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140482-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140482-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140482-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140482-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140482-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140487-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140487-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"3016\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=3016\" class=\"wp-image-3016\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140487-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140487-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140487-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140487-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140487-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140488-1024x768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140488-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"3017\" data-link=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/?attachment_id=3017\" class=\"wp-image-3017\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140488-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140488-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140488-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140488-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140488-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pour le retour, nous\nn\u2019avions pas pr\u00e9vu d\u2019autre option que celle de l\u2019auto-stop. C\u2019\u00e9tait le milieu\nde l\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi et nous \u00e9tions assez sereins. Nous avons \u00e9t\u00e9 couronn\u00e9s de cent\npour cent de r\u00e9ussite, avec un ramassage par les deux premiers v\u00e9hicules que nous\navons crois\u00e9s. Il faut dire qu\u2019ils ne se bousculaient pas et que ce fut donc\ntr\u00e8s agr\u00e9able&nbsp;! Sur le c\u00f4t\u00e9, le canyon du Rio Baker d\u00e9voilait toute sa\nbeaut\u00e9\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-video aligncenter\"><video controls src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140490.mp4\"><\/video><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140491.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140491-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3019\" srcset=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140491-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140491-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140491-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140491-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140491-1280x960.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-video aligncenter\"><video controls src=\"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/P1140493.mp4\"><\/video><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><br><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>De retour au village,\nc\u2019est l\u2019\u00e9lection de Miss Cochrane qui a attir\u00e9 notre attention, sur la <em>Plaza de Armas<\/em>. Un concours pour\nenfants. Cette bourgade n\u2019\u00e9tait pas grande et loin de tout mais les gens\ns\u2019activaient pour la faire vivre et une belle chaleur humaine et une bonne\nambiance se d\u00e9gageaient d\u2019eux.\n\nIl a plu toute la journ\u00e9e d\u2019apr\u00e8s, et nous nous sommes\ndonc repos\u00e9s, entre discussions avec Ingo, motard sur la Carretera, et petites\nsorties de la maison pour aller manger.\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Ambiance musicale&nbsp;: Mon Europ\u00e9enne &#8211; Saez J\u2019avais devant moi deux jours avant de reprendre la route ou plut\u00f4t, le ferry. J\u2019en ai donc profit\u00e9 pour me reposer, particuli\u00e8rement les pieds, plus soumis aux kilom\u00e8tres et \u00e0 la charge quotidiens, reprendre des forces et \u00e9crire un peu sur le blog. J\u2019avais assez vu la ville et [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3019,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[16],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2967","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-chili"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2967","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2967"}],"version-history":[{"count":12,"href":"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2967\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5756,"href":"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2967\/revisions\/5756"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3019"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2967"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2967"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/enroutepourlinconnu.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2967"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}